Wednesday, November 19, 2025

CITYLIGHTS

The untold secrets of Jordan’s Tafilah Castle

At first glance, it’s a modest, rectangular stone fortress. But look closer, and you’ll find that this stronghold has been a watchtower for civilizations across thousands of years, from the Edomites to the Ottomans.

By Paul George

info@thearabianstories.com

Friday, August 29, 2025

The Edomites, famed for their copper-smelting skills, were among the earliest to see Tafilah’s strategic potential. Perched to oversee mountain passes and fertile valleys, the site was more than a military hub, it was a survival lifeline. Its lofty vantage point allowed for surveillance of approaching threats, while its hidden assets lay underground: secret tunnels stretching hundreds of meters to nearby springs. These lifelines, such as “Al-Jahir” and “Al-Ansar,” meant defenders could access fresh water even during sieges, a detail that might have made all the difference in the heat of battle.

Over centuries, Tafilah Castle weathered not just armies but nature’s fury. Earthquakes, including the destructive quake of 1927, shook its walls, while wars damaged its structure. Each time, it rose again. The version standing today owes much to Ottoman reconstruction, with walls reinforced for durability. Even the design speaks to its defensive purpose: step-shaped inner walls for easy access to the top, and narrow arrow slits doubling as firearm ports during later eras.

Beyond the eastern main gate, a stone-paved courtyard opens up, anchored by a deep, cylindrical well, an ancient insurance policy against thirst. The rectangular layout, simple yet strategic, reveals the military thinking of the time: no ornamentation, just efficiency.

And yet, for all its centuries of service, the castle keeps its secrets well. No inscriptions or carved dates have been found here. Researchers must piece together its story from scattered records, oral histories, and the artifacts unearthed nearby.

Tafilah’s tale doesn’t end with its castle. The surrounding region is a tapestry of history and nature. The Dana Biosphere Reserve, Jordan’s largest, is a paradise for hikers and wildlife enthusiasts, while the ancient city of Busaira offers glimpses into the Edomite capital. Roman milestones, Byzantine church ruins, and Ottoman-era farmlands tell of a region that adapted with each passing empire.

Today, Tafilah is still a place of watchfulness, only now, it observes travelers seeking authentic Jordan away from the tourist crowds. You can stroll the restored old tourist street, shop for handwoven rugs, visit the museum in the old school building, and sip Arabic coffee with locals eager to share their stories. 

So, next time you think of castles, don’t just picture Europe’s spired fortresses. Think of Tafilah, Jordan’s enduring stone sentinel, still keeping watch after thousands of years, quietly telling a story of resilience, resourcefulness, and the timeless human instinct to protect what matters most.

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